Shibamata (柴又) is a charming neighborhood on the eastern side of Tokyo near Edogawa River that takes you back to the olden-days of Japan. The popular long-running TV film series titled “Otoko wa Tsurai Yo” (It’s Tough Being a Man) was home to the main character in the series, Toru-san, so you can find many homages to him throughout the area like these sculptures.
Along the main street leading to the Shibamata Taishakuten Temple you will find establishments serving traditional Japanese snacks such as dango (団子) and senbei (煎餅), as well as some unique spots to stop by on the way. Below are the places that we recommend checking out while in Shibamata!
1. Shibamata TAMAYA (栄又たま屋)
If you take the train, one of the first things you'll see on the right down the path to the main street is this souvenir shop 'Shibamata TAMAYA' (栄又たま屋) which sells unique souvenirs such as old-school Japanese underwear and a variety of golden poop-shaped good luck amulets. The woman who works here is very friendly, and knows how to say 'poop' in many different languages. (She told us how to say poop in Greek, Portuguese, Arabic, and French.)
Address: 4 Chome-9-5 Shibamata, Katsushika City, Tokyo 125-0052
These are some of the golden poop souvenirs that they sell. I got the mini golden poop amulet to put in my wallet for good luck with money!
Old-school Japanese underwear that families wore together?
2. Shibamata Hikara Yokocho (柴又ハイカラ横丁)
After a short walk from the station, and just to the left of the main street entrance you will find retro candy heaven inside of the eccentric 'Shibamata Hikara Yokocho' (柴又ハイカラ横丁).
Address: 7 Chome-3-12 Shibamata, Katsushika City, Tokyo 125-0052
Website: http://www2.odn.ne.jp/shibamata/
In the back right corner you will see some retro games, postcards of stars from back in the day, and this life-sized shopkeeper statue!
Near the entrance of the shop there's a shooter game where you can shoot cork pellets at the small rotating candies that you then get as your prize.
3. Takagiya Shinise (高木屋老舗)
Now on the main street, start off with some dango from Takagiya Shinise (高木屋老舗). Shibamata is actually famous for 'kusa dango' (dango made of a mixture of rice and mugwort). This is because a long time ago rice farmers would sell them to visitors of Shibamata Taishakuten Temple. This particular dango shop also has some history behind it as being the home of Tora-san in the TV film mentioned previously 'Otoko wa Tsurai yo'. Pictured are the kusa dango with red bean paste, and the yaki dango ith seaweed flakes. The price is 160 JPY per skewer.
Address: 7 Chome-7-4 Shibamata, 葛飾区 Katsushika City, Tokyo 125-0052
Website: https://www.takagiya.co.jp/
4. Senbeiten (立花屋煎餅店)
The next snack to try is senbei from Tachibana Senbeiten (立花屋煎餅店). Senbei are rice crackers that are grilled over charcoal and coated in soy sauce, mirin, and other toppings. Some that are available here are miso, garlic, sesame seed, and togarashi (chili pepper).
Address: 7 Chome-7-6 Shibamata, Katsushika City, Tokyo 125-0052
5. Monzen Toraya (門前とらや)
Now for an actual meal, we recommend stopping at Monzen Toraya (門前とらや). They have an eat-in section inside of the building decorated with vintage posters of Tora-san. Their menu is quite large and has desserts, savory dishes, and snacks. I got the sansai soba, which is a soba dish with mixed spring vegetables!
Address: 7 Chome-7-5 Shibamata, Katsushika City, Tokyo 125-0052
Website: http://www.toraya.info/
A window display in the front has lovely little plastic replicas of their dishes.
6. Shibamata Taishakuten (柴又帝釈天)
At the end of the main street you will finally arrive at the entrance of Shibamata Taishakuten(柴又帝釈天). This temple was founded in 1629, and has a 500 year old pine tree that's been given the nickname "dragon pine" because of its long branches that snake around the front of the temple.
Address: 7 Chome-10-3 Shibamata, Katsushika City, Tokyo 125-0052
Website: http://www.taishakuten.or.jp/index.html
To the right of the entrance you will see a charming shishi 獅子 (lion dog) omikuji おみくじ (fortune slip) machine. If you put in 200 JPY the shishi will dance for you and drop the omikuji from its mouth into a hole where you can take it out to see your fortune!
7. Yamamoto-tei (山本亭)
After all of the walking you can take some time to relax with matcha and wagashi 和菓子 (Japanese confectionery) at Yamamoto-tei (山本亭).
Address: 7 Chome-19-32 Shibamata, Katsushika City, Tokyo 125-0052
Website: https://www.city.katsushika.lg.jp/institution/1000094/1006823.html
In one of the main rooms you can take a break on the tatami mat and enjoy the gorgeous award-winning Japanese garden from your seat!
The style of wagashi depends on the season, and they even have cold matcha for the hot summer days.
After you are finished relaxing you can walk around the building and see the Japanese garden from different views.
BONUS
Since these two locations are a little out of the way of the main street we will include them as bonus areas to go. They are just as fun and interesting so we recommend you go to them as well!
8. Portrait Illust Coin Laundry (にがおえコインランドリー)
It may seem like a typical (but cute and retro) laundromat on the outside, but on the inside the walls and ceiling are covered with illustrations that were apparently drawn by the owner so that people waiting for their laundry would not be bored! It's just a little room but it's cute for a visit and some photos!
Address: 1 Chome-43-1 Shibamata, Katsushika City, Tokyo 125-0052
9. Sepia (喫茶セピア)
My personal favorite kissaten is right here in Shibamata, and its called 'Sepia' (喫茶セピア). Everything from the menu items to the head-to-toe decor are an overload of retro showa-era kawaii goodness!
Address: 7 Chome-4-11 Shibamata, Katsushika City, Tokyo 125-0052
Website(Their Twitter): https://twitter.com/sepia_mama
On the first floor they have a dine-in area where you can order the typical kissaten fare such as pudding, napolitan pasta, and cream soda (ice cream float).
On dine-in days they don't want you to get up and walk around to take photos, but on certain days they turn it into a museum (unfortunately no food or drink on these days) and you pay 600 JPY to explore the first and second floor!
On the second floor they have a GIANT collection of Candy Candy (a popular manga from the showa-era) items that you can pick up and play with.
so much to do!! thanks for the great tour 😊